Mallorca has many layers. It’s about discovery, but it’s also about the sun, the unbelievable colors of the sea, the wine, the fresh oranges, having a great time with your loved ones, and, above all, the joy of life. However, things were quite different when we visited Mallorca, and we felt like we had arrived on a ghost island.
And a bit of acoustic folk?
Mallorca apocalypse
Empty resorts, boarded-up windows of bankrupt businesses, and the ubiquitous SOS Turismo campaign evoked post-apocalyptic scenarios in the first moments. It was April 2021, and the world had been affected by a global pandemic. Places like Mallorca, highly dependent on tourism, were taking it badly. On the other hand, we had a unique opportunity to have the whole island almost to ourselves and to discover otherwise unpleasantly populated places.
Photoshop-like azure water
Mallorca is the largest island in the Spanish archipelago of the Balearic Islands. Even so, it’s ideally sized for exploring it all in a week and still having time to relax on the beach. So far, I have seen that incredibly azure blue sea in Photoshop when I accidentally messed up with the saturation slider. You can comfortably reach the other side of the island within an hour and a half, for example, from the capital, Palma, to the Fermentor peninsula, which I consider the island’s highlight.
The impressive views, steep cliffs, small hidden beaches, and narrow winding roads will make many adventurer’s hearts skip a beat (assuming they avoid the high season). Aside from the most famous viewpoints such as the Mirador es Colomer, or perhaps even more iconic, the Cap de Formentor lighthouse, I also recommend the Albercutx Watchtower, where you have the whole peninsula in the palm of your hand. If you’re not faint-hearted and don’t suffer from vertigo, find time for a quick track: Coll de la Creu (~15 min), starting just before Túnel rocoso. Be careful though, the stairs are very steep, there are no handrails and the height below you keeps increasing.
What to visit at Fermentor
1. Mirador de Es Colomer – undoubtedly the most breathtaking viewpoint on the island39.931143, 3.111703
2. Albercutx Watchtower – the ruins of the watchtower, and also the highest point of the peninsula, from where you have Fermentor in the palm of your hand. The road here is not in the best shape, but you can make it without a 4×4 vehicle39.928975, 3.117126
3. Coll de la Creu – a short hike to the vista. Nothing for those who are afraid of heights 39.949509, 3.177795
5. Far de Formentor – the iconic lighthouse at the end of the peninsula 39.961437, 3.211811
Mallorca, the island promised to cyclists and hikers
Anyone who doesn’t meet a cyclist on the island has probably never left the resort, as Mallorca is their promised land. As well as lovers of mountain hiking and driving on winding roads, All can be found and pleased mainly in the Serra de Tramuntana mountain range, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2011. On the way to the hidden beach of La Calobra gorge with water on both sides, you will also pass the Mirador Coll de Reis viewpoint, only to be surprised a few kilometers further on by the totally different landscape of the Embassament de Cúber lake.
In the shade of orange trees
Lovers of picturesque towns will find themselves in the valley of orange groves – in Sóller. Head to one of the tapas bars in the square and enjoy freshly squeezed juice or homemade ice cream while you watch St. Bartholomew’s Church and the historic wooden tram that can take you to the harbor.
Also noteworthy is Deià – a hilltop village, and the fantastic Mirador de sa Foradada viewpoint, where locals go to drink wine with friends, sing and enjoy the (setting) sun.
Under the protection of Santa Catalina Thomas
It would be unchristian to neglect Valldemossa. One of the most attractive sights of the island, known mainly for its Carthusian monastery, streets lined with diverse flora, and old stone houses. On each of these houses, you’ll find a ceramic tile depicting Santa Catalina Thomas, born here in 1531, beatified in 1792, and declared a saint by the Pope in 1930.
What to visit in the Serra de Tramuntana
1. Mirador Coll de Reis – mountain peaks and countless serpentines. A viewpoint worth a stop 39.831584, 2.817401
2. Sa Calobra – although this “hidden” beach at the mouth of the canyon has already been discovered by the masses, it is still worth a visit. Besides, the people are mostly just on the beach, and not as many enter the canyon 39.852358, 2.806677
3.Embassament de Cúber – a beautiful lake surrounded by mountains 39.787211, 2.796992
Mirador del Canó Illes Malgrats – view of the two small islands 39.787211, 2.796992
The eastern part of Mallorca
The landscape of the eastern part of the island is not nearly as dynamic – rocky mountains and steep cliffs are replaced by plains with fields and vineyards. This part of the island is not so dear to my heart, and honestly, I always recommend the other half of Mallorca. Nevertheless, there are a few exceptions that should not be missed.
Above all, the seaside town of Cala Figuera absolutely charms with its harbor, which stretches across two narrow bays and can be walked around. If you’re lucky, you’ll also come across a small fish market where you can buy fresh fish directly. Just a few kilometers away, Es Pontàs, a natural limestone arch, rises above the sea.
Where to go east from Palma
1. Talaia de Son Jaumell – a small hike to the ruins of the watchtower. Overlooking all sides 39.738468, 3.451592
2.Puig de Sant Salvador – a massive stone cross and monastery atop a hill towering above the surrounding plains 39.453727, 3.188219